Plant care guide - Calathea Crocata

Calathea crocata flourishes in bright, filtered light similar to the dappled light of its rainforest floor habitat. Place it near a window with indirect sunlight; for example, an east- or north-facing window where it gets gentle morning or late-day light is ideal. Avoid direct sun, especially strong midday sun, as it will scorch or fade the leaves. In winter months or darker rooms, you may need to supplement with a grow light to provide adequate illumination

• Position your Calathea crocata in bright, indirect light – near an east or west window with a sheer curtain or in bright shade – to mimic the gentle, filtered light of the jungle
• If natural light is limited (e.g. during short winter days), use artificial grow lights to ensure the plant gets ~8–10 hours of light daily

• Do not expose the plant to direct sunlight (no harsh midday sun on the leaves); intense sun can bleach and scorch the foliage
• Do not place it in a dark corner or windowless space for long periods – insufficient light can lead to weak, leggy growth and dull leaf colors

Proper watering is critical for Calathea crocata. This plant likes its soil consistently moist but never soggy. Water thoroughly and regularly, allowing excess to drain, and aim to keep the potting mix evenly damp (like a wrung-out sponge). Do not let the soil dry out completely – if it does, the leaves will start to wilt, curl or get crispy brown edges from dehydration. On the other hand, avoid overwatering; sitting in water can cause root rot (often signaled by yellowing leaves). Always use room-temperature, filtered or distilled water if possible, since Calatheas are sensitive to cold water and chemicals (chlorine, fluoride) in tap water.

• Water little but often to maintain consistent moisture. In growing season, water about once a week (or when the top ~2 cm of soil feels dry) – use the finger test to gauge soil moisture. In winter, water slightly less but never allow all the soil to bone-dry
• Use lukewarm, dechlorinated or distilled water for watering. Calatheas are sensitive to hard tap water – using filtered or rainwater helps prevent brown leaf tips from fluoride or salt buildup

• Do not let the soil dry out completely. Drought stress will cause leaf edges to crisp and curl; the plant prefers constant slight dampness
• Do not overwater or leave the pot standing in water. Empty any drip trays after watering so the roots aren’t waterlogged. Waterlogged, oxygen-poor soil leads to root rot (yellowing, droopy leaves and a rotting smell) – if the soil stays soggy, you are watering too frequently or the soil drainage is poor.

As a tropical plant, Calathea crocata loves high humidity. Aim for 50–60% relative humidity or above to mimic its native moist air. In typical Western European indoor environments (often ~40% RH or lower in winter), extra steps are needed to boost humidity around the plant. Low humidity will quickly cause leaf curling and brown, crispy edges. To raise humidity, you can group Calatheas with other plants, place the pot on a tray of pebbles with water (ensuring the pot itself isn’t submerged), or use a humidifier in the room. Misting the leaves with water a few times a week can help (use room-temperature water and avoid soaking the flowers), though sustained methods like humidifiers are more effective.

Calathea crocata is a moderate feeder. It benefits from occasional feeding during the growing season, but it’s sensitive to over-fertilization. Use a balanced, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer at half the recommended strength, applied about once a month in spring and summer. Feeding provides nutrients for growth and can encourage flowering, but do not fertilize too often. Pause fertilization in autumn and winter (October through March) when the plant’s growth naturally slows down – feeding during this rest period can lead to salt build-up or root burn. Always fertilize on moist soil (never when the soil is bone dry) to avoid burning the roots, and periodically flush the soil with plain water to prevent excess fertilizer salts.

• Feed lightly once a month from roughly April to September with a general houseplant fertilizer diluted to half-strength. This gentle feeding regimen will support the Calathea’s growth. For example, you might fertilize every 4 weeks during the warm growing season when the plant is actively producing new leaves.
• Consider mixing in a slow-release fertilizer granule when repotting in spring, which can provide a low-level nutrient supply for several months. This reduces the need for frequent liquid feeding and lowers the risk of fertilizer burn.

• Do not fertilize during the winter dormant period. When growth is minimal (lower light and cooler temps), the plant won’t use much fertilizer, and excess nutrients can accumulate and harm the roots. Resume feeding in spring when you see new growth starting.
• Do not over-fertilize or use full-strength fertilizers. Calatheas have delicate roots – too much fertilizer can cause “burn” (browning leaf edges/tips and root damage). If in doubt, under-fertilize rather than overdo it. It’s wise to dilute any fertilizer more than the label suggests and observe how the plant responds.

Plant your Calathea crocata in a rich, well-draining potting mix that can hold moisture without becoming waterlogged. A high-quality houseplant or tropical plant mix is suitable. You can create your own by combining standard potting soil with ingredients like peat moss or coco coir (for organic matter and moisture retention) and perlite or coarse sand (for drainage). The soil should be slightly acidic and humus-rich, similar to the leaf litter on a rainforest floor. Good drainage is essential – ensure the pot has drainage holes, and consider adding a thin layer of gravel or pottery shards at the bottom to prevent water from pooling at the roots. A well-aerated mix will keep the roots healthy by providing oxygen while still holding the moisture the plant needs.

• Use a light, airy soil mix for Calathea. For example, a blend of peat-free houseplant compost with about 20–30% perlite will retain moisture but still drain excess water, preventing the soil from becoming heavy or waterlogged.
• Repot in spring when the plant shows new growth. Transfer to a pot just slightly larger than the root ball (a pot that’s too big can hold onto too much water). Fresh soil will replenish nutrients and give roots room to grow.
• Divide the plant during repotting if it’s large and crowded. Gently separate sections with at least one healthy shoot and root system each, and pot them individually. This not only propagates new plants but also keeps the parent plant from overcrowding.

• Do not plant in heavy, poorly drained soil or pots without drainage holes. Dense soil that stays soggy will suffocate roots and invite root rot. Always ensure excess water can drain away freely.
• Do not over-pot (i.e. don’t jump to a huge container). Calatheas actually prefer a somewhat snug pot. Too much extra soil around the roots can lead to chronic overwatering issues. If in doubt, err on the side of a smaller pot and upsize gradually.
• Do not repot too frequently – Calatheas need time to adjust, and constant repotting can stress them. Only repot when necessary (e.g. roots are crowded or soil is depleted). Likewise, avoid repotting in the middle of winter or when the plant is in bloom; wait for the appropriate season for minimal stress.